The New York State Department of State Division of Consumer Protection has partnered with the New York State Builders Association (NYSBA) to offer consumers professional advice regarding home improvement or repair projects. This site is primarily for homeowners who are considering a project but have not begun work or hired a contractor or are faced with rectifying problematic work. Browse through previously answered consumer questions. If you do not see a question and answer which is relevant to your situation, Ask the Home Improvement Expert to answer a new question. We will do our best to respond in a timely fashion. Thank you for your questions.1
Visit the Home Improvements page for additional resources.
Home Improvement General Questions
- How Do I Check Out My Contractor?
- What Do These Contracting Terms Mean?
- Can I Receive Government Assistance for my Project?
Answers to Questions Regarding Specific Topics
- Additions and Remodels
- Basement Refinishing
- Concrete/Masonry/Stone/Foundation/Driveways
- Electrical
- Floor Covering (tile, carpet, hard wood, laminate, etc.)
- Painting
- Plumbing
- Heating and Air Conditioning
- Roofing, Siding and Insulation
- Windows and Doors
How Do I Check Out My Contractor?
We are interviewing contractors for 3+ million job. How can we check to be sure there are no claims against them?
Unfortunately, there is no one source to find information on a contractor’s history. A search on the Internet for public records of localities or counties could result in finding liens against properties owned by the individual or companies. Another search on the State Departments of Labor and Taxation and Finance websites could produce tax liens or employment issues affecting contractors.
The Better Business Bureau (BBB) would only have complaints made directly to them but it is still an avenue for information.
The Office of the New York Attorney General (OAG) would have records of misconduct but only if actions were taken. You may want to contact the Consumer Frauds Bureau or Criminal Prosecutions Bureau at the OAG.
The best way to find out about your contractor is to talk to past customers. Get a list of at least three and contact them. Ask about quality of workmanship, contract procedures, the time it took to complete the project and overall satisfaction of work done by the contractor. Compare the jobs done to your proposed project so you are making an appropriate comparison.
Get the name of the bank the contractor uses and call the branch manager who may be able to give an opinion as to how the company operates financially. Another option is to acquire the name of a supplier the contractor uses to ask about his/her reputation and financial stability.
What do these contracting terms mean?
Is there a resource available to the public that defines construction and architectural terms so that I can better understand a home improvement project and the terms of my contract?
If you go to the New York State Builders Association website and click on http://www.Builderbooks.com it will bring you to an excellent listing of building industry publications. Many of these publications are designed for the homeowner/consumer and are typically found in the “For Your Clients” section. Publications such as, “Building Your New Home: An Insider’s Guide,” “Residential Construction Performance Guidelines (Consumer Reference),” “How to Find a Professional Remodeler” and many more are good resources. You may also check out the New York State Residential Code (the building code rules applicable to new and renovated one and two-family dwellings and townhouses). Many building terms are defined in this code. Finally, you may want to visit the New York State Department of State, Codes Division website or contact them by phone at 518-474-4073 to find out how else you can review the State’s Residential Code and its definitions.
What are mechanic’s lien clauses and who does it protect?
The Mechanics Lien Law is found in articles 1 to 3-A of the New York State Lien Law. It is intended to protect all contractors, subcontractors, material suppliers and workers for non-payment by homeowners, contractors, or employers. Under the Home Improvement Contracts Law, home improvement contractors are required to provide customers with notice informing them that when there is non-payment to the contractor, subcontractors, material suppliers and workers for work performed a lien may be filed against the home. This law also spells out how the homeowner is protected against the application of liens and how to secure a lien discharge. The Home Improvement Contracts Law can be found in General Business Law, Article 36-A and related lien law trust fund sections are found in the State Lien Law, article 3-A. Most libraries will have these laws.
Can I Receive Government Assistance for my Project?
We are considering purchasing an outdoor furnace, but didn't know if there was funding or assistance from the State that would help with the cost and installation of this product.
Also, we were informed by a contractor that there is State assistance for people who are looking to get an older barn repaired. The barn was built in the 1800's and is in need of roof repair among other things.
If you are unable to help, please point me in the direction that I need to go in order to secure answers to these questions!
First, go to the New York State Builders Association website, and look at the index for the local affiliated group in your home area and click onto that link for their member directory or contact information. You may find a classified listing for outdoor heating/furnaces that could provide funding assistance information. The same directory or local affiliate contact may be able to link you to remodelers that could help you with your old barn renovations and funding assistance. Another lead would be to contact one or all of the following State agencies to see if they have funding assistance for this work: the New York State Energy Research and Development Authority (NYSERDA), 518-862-1090; the Division of Housing and Community Renewal (DHCR), 518-473-8384; the NYS Office of Parks and Recreation (for historic preservation funding aid), 518-474-0456; New York State Agricultural and Markets (old barns assistance), 518-457-3880.
My wife and I are looking to erect a deck or possibly a shed attached to or separate from our home. Will the addition increase our property taxes?
Assuming you properly obtain a building permit, your local assessment office will have access to the relevant information. Your property value assessment will most likely increase as a result of the improvement to your local property. You may appeal that assessment change when notified by contacting your local assessor’s office.
The home we have recently purchased is not wheelchair accessible to enter. When looking to add an outdoor wheelchair ramp for entrance, does it matter if we choose wood or concrete as the major building material? Does the addition of a wheelchair accessible ramp generally lower or raise the value of a home?
Concrete is generally more expensive than other materials. If the property is ever sold, a concrete ramp is expensive to remove. A ramp built with pressure treated framing and decking with matching railings is less expensive and more attractive. Your property value would be lowered if the ramp is needed and a subsequent purchaser would incur the cost of removing the ramp. Alternatively, the ramp could be seen as an improvement or beneficial for mobility or for other uses.
The basement in my grandmother’s home has been unfinished since she moved in during the 1970’s. We are now looking to finish the basement as a do-it-yourself job. Will we need building permits?
Yes, especially with the potential for changes in structural or load-bearing columns or walls, adding a heating or cooling system, electrical outlets and wiring, and maybe even plumbing. Check with your local building code enforcement office to get more details of permit coverage requirements. If you do use a contractor, be sure they have workers compensation and statutory disability coverage in order to obtain a building permit. Be sure to follow the Consumer Protection Board’s or your local builders/remodeler’s association’s advice on hiring a contractor. Using a contractor may save you many aches and pains later and you transfer the job’s risk to a professional. Ask the contractor if they have their CGR (certified graduate remodeler) designation or their CGB (certified graduate builder) designation as a final hiring step if you decide to hire someone.
We are in the process of remodeling our basement into a children’s play room. When talking to our contractor, what types of safety questions should we be asking?
First and foremost would be a second point of egress, this includes "Bilco" doors and windows that meet specific criteria. Smoke detectors are also a must. Considering other measures I would include padded walls, a back-up sump pump and a dehumidifier to protect your investment and protect from the area moisture problems.
In most cases the building Department will require these and other measures when adding living space in a basement, which requires a building permit.
Concrete/Masonry/Stone/Foundation/Driveways
When paving our current pebble/dirt driveway, is there a optimal or preferred grade at which the driveway should be paved?
The least amount of negative grade (slope away from the home) that is possible is preferable. Ideally between 1 and 3% is perfect to make water flow but not make the driveway feel like a mountain road. Grades above 5% can start feeling steep, at 10% many municipalities require that you pave immediately upon construction. The percent grade is calculated by dividing the height you are dropping by the distance traveled (rise/run=slope or percent grade). Just remember going steeper doesn’t make it easier to shovel and but makes it easier to slip.
Is there a “best location” for a bathroom exhaust fan? Example: directly above the shower/tub or in the center of the bathroom?
All good exhaust fans will do a proper job when used properly and where located on the ceiling of a bathroom. It is more of an aesthetic choice than a performance issue. By code, a mechanical venting system should be at least 50 cubic feet/minute or CFM’s and be vented to the outside. Other considerations include how the humid air is removed from the house; whether it will travel through unconditioned air on its way out of the house (special considerations as to the type of ducting used is needed). Also, be careful about ducting humid air to the soffit as soffit/ridge vents can draw the moist air back into the house or attic. A gable or a roof vent is the preferred method for venting.
Floor Covering (tile, carpet, hard wood, laminate, etc.)
I had a contractor put tile down in our back hall. The grout keeps cracking and lifting. They came back and tried to secure the floor but it is still cracking? Any suggestions?
When grout cracks out of the joints, it usually indicates a larger problem. Often it pertains to movement either in the subfloor or at the perimeter of the room. The Tile Council of America recommends one and a quarter inches of subfloor underneath the tile to give it support. Grout cracking is the first sign that it may be flexing more than the allowable standard. How did your contractor secure the floor? Did he/she put cross bracing underneath the floor? Did he/she pull tile up and put extra screws into the subfloor?
Another possibility is perimeter expansion. If the tile is set tight against the walls, it puts pressure on the floors. Houses are constantly moving with air pressure and temperature changes. While this movement isn’t noticeable to the naked eye, it will exert enough pressure on a tile floor if it is too close to the wall and squeeze the floor together enough for the grout to crack. There should be at least a quarter inch space between the walls and the tile. This area should then be filled with caulk. Most grouts have a matching caulk readily available.
I have a deck with new pressure treated railings that I want to paint. I have heard that I should wait 6 months to do this. Is this right, or can I paint them now? Is there a type of paint better suited for outdoor use?
Treated lumber (ACQ lumber aka Wolmanized lumber) is treated with chemicals in two ways - "dipped" (that is when the lumber is dipped into a big vat of chemicals), kiln dried or steamed (that is when they take the lumber and put it into a kiln and the lumber absorbs the chemicals.)
Both treatments will swell the wood. Once a deck is installed, the sun and UV rays will shrink and dry out the lumber. Once that happens, usually within 4-6 months depending on exposure to sun and the geographic location of the lumber (the further North the more time is needed), the wood at that point is ready for "finish.”
You can finish in two basic ways:
- Sealer/stain - A sealer is usually a water based product. It can be clear or have a color. Many people refer to this as a "stain." These products have a high concentration of water, so they do not last long. When this product is used, repeat this process every 12-18 months, depending on local weather conditions.
- Painting - Before you paint "treated" lumber you need to follow these steps: A. Make sure lumber is dried out. B. Lumber needs to be primed with a POLY Based primer. This is important because even though it is dried out, the chemicals will still interact with paint. Poly based primers will create a "barrier" between lumber and finish coats. Homeowners often miss this step.
Some contractors prefer an oil base finish top coat. Just make sure the paint is for exterior use and it is effective against UV Rays.
Be sure to check out the "manufacturer’s recommended" finishing procedure.
Is it possible to add plumbing if the sewer line is higher than the fixtures?
Yes. To add plumbing to a higher sewer line a sewage pump would have to be installed, as well as a plumbing vent from the pump.
What plumbing is necessary for the installation of hob mounted and floor mounted exposed sets?
If referring to hub mounted plumbing, then a closet flange would be required to mount a toilet to the hub of the sewer pipe.
How do I rid my house of humidity? We have an old home (200 yrs) and the basement floor consists of field stone slabs which tend to sweat when it gets humid. We have a central air conditioner but it hasn’t been warm enough to turn it on. We also have exhaust fans in the bathrooms on the second floor of our two-story home for shower humidity.
The solution would be a whole home dehumidifier. They are generally made in 2 sizes. 90 pints/ day or 135 pints/day.
Are there any agencies that will help with purchasing an alternate heating system such as a pellet stove?
Appliance power usage can vary greatly based on individual circumstances. Please visit the New York State Energy Research and Development Authority’s (NYSERDA’s) Get Energy Smart website for information and energy-saving tips. We are unaware of any programs that assist with the purchase of pellet stoves. However, you may want to go to the Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy (DSIRE) for a review of all New York homeowner incentives for renewable energy and energy efficiency.
You can also review their Home Performance with ENERGY STAR program which offers home assessments and energy efficiency improvements by approved contractors.
I'll be converting my heating system from oil-hydronic to natural gas-hydronic. The manufacturer’s specifications for the natural gas power vent boiler indicate a 3.0” diameter exhaust. Would a larger exhaust vent be a problem? Our current exhaust is a 4.0” diameter exhaust.
Assuming the exhaust pipe is metal, yes it would be problematic. The larger exhaust pipe would cause a greater cooling of the gases and would probably create some condensation and eventually premature corrosion of the pipe.
Roofing, Siding and Insulation
Are there any incentives for work associated with improving heat retention and insulation of your home? If there are such assistance programs, what qualifications would an individual or family be required to meet to be eligible?
There are programs available to make your home tighter and more energy efficient. Please go to the Database of State Incentives for Renewable Energy (DSIRE) for a review of all New York homeowner incentives for renewable and energy efficiency. If you live on Long Island, LIPA (the Long Island Power Authority) or, for the rest of the State, NYSERDA (New York State Energy Research and Development Authority) may offer help through their Home Performance with ENERGY STAR Programs. Your local electric and/or gas utility may also offer assistance.
I am in the process of putting up drywall in place of wood paneling walls in my finished attic. Would it be recommended to upgrade the insulation when the wood paneling is down? Is there an energy-efficient insulation type?
It would be a great idea to upgrade insulation. Generally, you would install insulation that fits the cavity. For example, 2 x 4 rafters can only accommodate 3 1/2 inch insulation that is sold under the label of R-11 or R-13.
- 2 x 6 rafters can only accommodate 6 1/4 inch insulation which is sold under the label of R-19 or R-21
- 2 x 8 rafters can only accommodate 8 inch insulation which is sold under the label of R-25
- 2 x 10 rafters can only accommodate 10 inch insulation which is sold under the label of R-30
- 2 x 12 rafters can only accommodate 8 inch insulation which is sold under the label of R-38
An alternative is to have insulation professionally blown in with either cellulose or fiberglass loose fill.
There are also new programs available using high density closed cell foam which will give a greater insulating R-value with a lower number of inches used.
I have a four foot crawl space under a portion of my home. While there is insulation between the floor joists, there is no insulation on the walls. I would like to insulate the walls and am wondering what is the best product for this application?
You say there is no insulation ON the walls. I am assuming you mean IN the walls. If you are talking about insulation IN the walls, there are several choices. Most homeowners choose fiberglass. It is the most cost effective insulation if walls are already open. To install in the walls, you would need to remove the sheetrock and/or paneling to expose studs. That can be costly.
Other ways to install insulation inside the walls would be to blow it in. This can be done from the outside of the house. In this method they would drill a hole into the exterior walls of your house and a contractor would blow in insulation which is usually a dry cellulose type. Blown in cellulose can be installed from inside as well as when the walls are open.
Foam board can also be used on the exterior if you are siding your house. The insulation board would go on first and then the siding would be applied on top.
The big variable is if the interior of the walls are open. If they are not and need to be opened up, that process would result in significant cost.
Our oldest just purchased a home in our neighborhood and we’re in the middle of doing a renovation. Our question is about windows: when evaluating windows, what are a few of the basic things to look for? We’ve never done renovations before and would like some guidance.
There is an excellent free article that may be helpful. It's from 2004, but still very relevant.
Excellent third party sources regarding windows include Efficient Windows Collaborative (EWC) and the National Fenestration Rating Council websites.
up1 Note: The New York State Department of State Division of Consumer Protection's "Ask the Home Improvement Expert" portion of our website is for informational purposes only and is not designed to replace an actual visual inspection, evaluation or estimate for any home maintenance, repair or improvement project you are undertaking. Any discussion of costs or contractor prices are used for illustrative purposes only. Only a contractor visually inspecting the site and actually working for you can quote a price for the job and best answer your specific project questions. The answers being provided on this website are based on very limited information and reflect only one perspective based on general experience with that type of project. The answer is intended to provide some general guidance and direction. Typically, the construction industry has multiple and varying solutions to building questions. Consumers with a serious issue in need of attention should consult with a professional directly and immediately. Do not wait for a response from this site. You should ensure that your home improvement project conforms to the New York State Building Code and your local codes. The following is a link to the New York State Department of State building code website. If you are unsure as to what your local codes are, call your local building department. Additionally, consumers should make sure that their home improvement professional complies with the Home Improvement Contract Law (New York State General Business Law Article 36-A) and any other local ordinance. Remember, any work that is being done MUST be performed in a safe manner to ensure your safety and that of others.